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36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel gerrydawesspain.com

"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life. . .” - - Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019; Chef-partner of Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York 2019

3/29/2025

A Taste of Hemingway’s Spain: A Memory Lane Gastronomic and Wine Tour of Don Ernesto's Favorite Places Including Madrid, Pamplona, Burguete, Málaga, Ronda and Valencia Thursday, July 17 - Monday, July 28, 2025


 
* * * * *

Ernest Hemingway’s Spain

A Customized Adventure Designed, Organized & Led
by Spanish Gastronomy, Wine & Culture Expert / Ernest Hemingway Aficionado and Writer-Photographer Gerry Dawes, 

Premio Nacional de Gastronómía 
(Spanish National Gastronomy Award)
 
Speaker, The Hemingway Society Conference, San Sebastián 2024
 
* * * * *

Thursday, July 17  - Monday, July 28, 2025

 $5,995 per person; $6,995 single supplement
(without airfare) 

Contact Gerry Dawes at gerrydawes@aol.com for Terms and Conditions for the trip.
 
My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee.


A window commemorating Ernest Hemingway at Casa Sobrino de Botín, an EH favorite in Madrid which figured prominently in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises.

Day 00 Thursday, July 17, Flights from city of origin to Málaga

Each traveler arranged their flight schedule to arrive in Málaga by early afternoon on Friday.

Day 01 Friday, July 18 Málaga

We will rendezvous at our centrally located Málaga Palacio hotel and, for those who arrive in time, have a casual tapas luncheon in the old quarter of Málaga, then stroll around the old quarter.

View of Málaga harbor from the Hotel Málaga Palacio.

In the evening, we will have drinks at the Gran Hotel Miramar, where EH, Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor and others stayed.  The Dangerous Summer p. 167 has descriptions of the people at the Marimar after a Málaga bullfight.
 
Dinner will be at a seaside restaurant that Ernest Hemingway knew when he visited Málaga to see  bullfights and stayed with his friend Bill Davies at Finca La Consula in nearby Churriana.  

Hotel Málaga Palacio.

Day 02 Saturday, July 19 Málaga - Ronda

In the morning, we will see some more of the old quarter, the Picasso Museum and the home where Picasso was born, the bullfight museum in the Málaga bullring, visit some other notable sites in the city, then have lunch in one of Málaga’s great seaside chiringuitos, like the ones that Hemingway would have frequented in Málaga for Mediterranean fish dishes such as the famous sardinas de espeto, fresh sardines skewered on cane or metal spits and roasted over live coals. 

 Sardinas de espeto, fresh sardines skewered on cane or metal spits and roasted over live coals. 
 
After lunch, we will stop outside Málaga to visit Finca La Consula, the magnificent country home of Hemingway’s great friend Bill Davies, where Hemingway stayed during the bullfights in Málaga and shot cigarettes from Matador Antonio Ordoñez’s mouth.  La Consula has now been renovated and turned into the Escuela de Hostelería de Málaga, a hotel and restaurant school.

La Consula, Hemingway's friend Bill Davis's home a few kilometers outside Málaga. (Photo courtesy of laconsula.com)

After visiting la Consula, we will drive through rugged mountains to Ronda, a former bandolero (bandit-and-smuggler), the hometown of Antonio Ordoñez and a mountain town much frequented by Hemingway.  Ronda has statues of Antonio Ordoñez and his father Cayetano, who fought bulls under the name Niño de la Palma and was the prototype for Pedro Romero in The Sun Also Rises and a central character in Death of Afternoon.  There is also a monument to Ernest Hemingway and to Orson Welles, who was a great friend of Antonio Ordoñez and had his ashes scattered in an old well on Antonio’s ranch near Ronda.   Antonio Ordoñez was also a friend of tour leader Gerry Dawes, who has great remembrances of the maestro.
 
Gerry Dawes in front of the Ronda bullring at the statue of his friend the late Matador Antonio Ordoñez, Ernest Hemingway's great friend and subject of The Dangerous Summer.
 
 
Statue of
Cayetano Ordoñez, Antonio's father who fought bulls under the name Niño de la Palma and was the prototype for Pedro Romero in The Sun Also Rises and a central character in Death of Afternoon.
 

We will visit this exceptionally picturesque city, then relax in our wonderful hotel, which overlooks the mountains surrounding Ronda.  We will visit Ronda's famous historic Plaza de Toros and the museum, then we will have drinks on a rooftop terrace overlooking the bullring.  In the evening, we will have dinner in a restaurant that is a virtual bullfight photo-and-poster museum that also has photos of Hemingway in Ronda. 
 
(l) Father of Antonio Ordoñez, Cayetano Ordoñez, who fought bulls under the name Niño de la Palma and was the prototype for Pedro Romero in The Sun Also Rises and a central character in Death of Afternoon, Ernest Hemingway and Antonio Ordoñez at the bullring in Ronda before a corrida goyesca.  Photo by Ronda photographer Martín, 1954 (?).
 

 Ronda.

Flamenco dancer, Andalucía.

After dinner, we will offer the option of attending a Flamenco performance.

Hotel Reina Victoria (or comparable), Ronda.

Day 03 Sunday, July 20 Ronda – Córdoba AVE – Madrid

This morning we will visit a bit more of Ronda, then ride two hours north to Córdoba, where we will visit the famous Mezquita mosque, Median Azahara and the  Monasterio de San Jerónimo de Valparaíso, where Hemingway stayed as guest of the Marqués del Mérito, when he went to a corrida in Córdoba during The Dangerous Summer of 1959, then have lunch at an emblematic Córdoban restaurant in the old quarter.

We will send our bus ahead to Madrid with our luggage and our driver will handle delivering it to our hotel.

 
The Mezquita mosque in Córdoba.

In the afternoon, we will take the AVE high-speed train to Madrid, less than 2 hours away, arriving in late afternoon, and check into the Hotel Suecia, where Hemingway often stayed. We will also visit the Palace Hotel, which was one of the settings in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises.

AVE high-speed train. 

We will have dinner at Sobrino de Botín, supposedly an EH favorite which also figured prominently in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises. Gerry Dawes has long been a customer of Botín.  Gerry will read the passages in The Sun Also Rises that are supposed to be set in this world famous restaurant*, which is claimed in the Guiness Book of Records to be the oldest continually operating restaurant in the world.  (*There was another Botín, which closed in 1961, and was most likely the actual setting for that famous wine-soaked roast pig luncheon in The Sun Also Rises.  As the author of the expose, I will tell all.)

Hotel Suecia (or comparable), Madrid.

Gerry reading about the scenes set in Botín from Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises.


 
Cochinillo asado, roast suckling pig, one of Don Ernesto's favorites, at Botín.

Day 04 Monday, July 21 Madrid

In the morning, we will have breakfast tapas at the Cervecería Alemana, a favorite Hemingway and taurine aficionado hangout that it still much as it was during EH’s lifetime.  There is even a "Hemingway table" with photos of Don Ernesto and article reproductions on the wall above the table.

 Cervecería Alemana, Madrid. 

Photo of Ernest Hemingway and Matador Antonio Ordoñez, Ernest Hemingway's great friend and subject of The Dangerous Summer.

We will take a guided tour of the great Prado Museum and see some of the paintings that Ernest Hemingway so admired.   

After the Prado Museum visit, we will have lunch at a restaurant next to el Matadero, where Madrid's main slaughterhouse used to be, a place where a prominent scene in For Whom The Bell Tolls is set.  The restaurant is owned by Spain’s greatest cortador deto carve these exquisite expensive hams should be properly carved).  We will sample the best jamón, personally selected by this superstar personality.  This great professional ham cutter, a great friend of Gerry Dawes, is a consummate showman.  (If he is not off traveling to some far away place to cut hams, he may join us and show us his unique style.   This will be our first introduction to jamón Ibérico, the world's best hams from acorn-fed, pata negra (black foot breed) pigs.  The woman chef, mother of the cortador’s restaurant partner, is a great traditional cuisine cook, so jamón will just be the intro to our meal.

Florencio Sanchidrián, Spain's top professional ham carver.

We will briefly visit the Plaza de Callao, where the Hotel Florida, where Hemingway stayed during the Spanish Civil War, was located and other sites that figured prominently in Hemingway's stays in Madrid.  

In the evening, we will gather in our hotel and walk into a less visited section of Madrid, where we will have dinner at a taurine world restaurant, Casa Salvador (open since 1941), that EH likely visited, since Ava Gardner used to dine there.  The ambience of this restaurant takes us back to the days of The Dangerous Summer.
 
 

This photo at Restaurante Casa Salvador is courtesy of Casa Salvador.
 
Hotel Suecia (or comparable), Madrid. 

Day 05 Tuesday, July 22  Madrid – Burgos – La Rioja
  
In late morning, we will be picked up by our bus and driven through the Guadarrama mountains, the setting for For Whom The Bell Tolls, to Burgos, a town that EH visited several times and wrote about bringing the queso de Burgos back to Paris on the train and giving to Gertrude Stein. 
 
We will have lunch on roast suckling lamb and other Burgos specialties, then ride about an hour through picturesque Camino de Santiago scenery to La Rioja, where we will check into the Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada on the Camino de Santiago, then visit a Rioja family winery, where some really wonderful artisan wines are made in manmade underground caves.  We will have dinner at the winery, lamb chops and chorizo cooked in a fireplace over grapevine cuttings, salad, Spanish tortilla de patatas and plenty of the bodega’s vino.  
 
We will also visit a nearby winery that Hemingway once visited to taste wines with Matador Antonio Ordoñez. 
 
Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada (Santo Domingo, La Rioja)
 

Rioja family winery where we will have dinner.

Day 06 Wednesday, July 23 La Rioja – Pamplona – Burguete

In the morning, we will leave Rioja and in about an hour arrive in Pamplona,   see the memorial bust of EH in front of the bullring and walk along the route of the annual running of the bulls and visit the sites that EH wrote about in The Sun Also Rises.  We will visit the Hotel La Perla, where Hemingway stayed once in the later years; see the site on the Plaza del Castillo where Hotel Quintana (Hotel Montoya in The Sun Also Rises), owned by his great friend Juanito Quintana (also a friend of Gerry Dawes), was located; and the Hotel Yoldi, where the matadors stay and dress and where EH visited them before and after bullfights.  If we can arrange a typical meal at what is now Restaurante El Torreón del Castillo, we will dine in what used to be the basement level dining room of the former Hotel Quintana.  Hemingway wrote about dining there.

A Morning's Pleasure: Running the Bulls at Pamplona (An Excerpt from Homage to Iberia: More Spanish Travels & Reflections by Gerry Dawes)
 
 
Restaurante Aralar, Pamplona, one of the places Ernest Hemingway frequented for lunch or dinner.  Photograph by legendary  photographer Jim Hollander.

Many of the establishments where EH ate and drank no longer exist, but others are still operating and we will have a drink at the Rincón de Hemingway bar of Cafe Iruña, which has a life-size statue of EH hanging out at the end of the bar.  And we will have lunch in an EH favorite down on Calle San Nicolas serving the great typical Navarra food that EH would have eaten such as menestra (a panache of local vegetables) and trucha a la Navarra (whole local trout cooked with a slice of serrano ham in the belly) and we will drink the great Navarra rosados that EH always drank here.
 

Hostal Burguete, where EH stayed when he went trout fishing in the 1920s, featured prominently in The Sun Also Rises.

After lunch, we will ride an hour into the Navarran Pyrenees to the mountain town of Burguete, where we will check into Hostal Burguete, where EH stayed when he went trout fishing on a tributary of the Irati River via an overland trail.  Hemingway immortalized the hostal in The Sun Also Rises.  Tour leader Gerry Dawes has stayed there half a dozen times.  The Hostal Burguete still has the piano that the Bill Gorton character (based on Donald Ogden Smith) played in The Sun Also Rises.
 
We will ride 20 minutes east of Burguete to visit Orbaitzeta, where Jake Barners/Hemingway actually fished and we will see the spring where he cooled the two bottles of wine he brought from Burguete to have with lunch.  We will also visit the nearby Monastery of Roncesvalles, then relax in Burguete, stroll and have dinner on similar fare, including trout, that EH would have known when he stayed here in 1924 and 1925.  For those interested, if we can obtain fishing licenses, we may offer a trout fishing expedition 15 minutes from Burguete on the Irati River, where EH fished during visit after The Sun Also Rises was published.  

Hostal Burguete, Burguete (Navarra). 
 
Trout fishing in the Navarra Pyrenees.

Day 07 Thursday, July 24 Burguete – Roncal – Olite - Tudela 

In the morning,  we will drive through awesome spectacular Pyrenees Mountains scenery (Gerry wrote an article on this route that appeared in The New York Times Travel section) to the great cheese producing town of Roncal, where we will have lunch, sample Roncal cheese and drink the wonderful Navarra rosados that EH loved so much that he carried them with him on his travels around Spain following the bullfights.  

 Roncal.

Castle, Olite.

After lunch, we will continue south to Tudela, stopping for a brief visit to the charming castle village of Olite.  
 
Tudela will be having their annual fiesta, which will be as close as any fiesta in Spain to resembling the Fiestas de San Fermín in Pamplona during Hemingway’s time.   Except for the mobs of foreign tourists, which you won´t find here, Tudela has everything that Pamplona has—the running of the bulls, bullfights, processions, fireworks and great jotas, the wonderful typical folk singing of Navarra and neighboring Aragón, which is scant kilometers from Tudela.   In fact, many of the jota singers heard during the Fiestas de San Fermín in Pamplona come from Tudela.  We will check into our hotel and have a drink in the Plaza Mayor, which should be in full fiesta. 

Tudela monument to the Jota & Jota singer Raimundo Lanas (photo Bernardo Estornés Lasa).

 
Jota singer José Antonio Pérez Caro, Navarra, homage to the great jota singer Raimundo Lanas, a legend in the first half of the 20th Century.

For dinner, we will ride 15 minutes to the small town of Corella and have dinner with a Navarra winemaker at El Crucero, a  great unsung restaurant that specializes in the vegetable-based dishes for which this region is famous, including alcachofas con foie (artichokes with with a seared piece of foie gras on top), the great pochas (beans with chorizo) and cardos con granada (cardoon stalks with pomegranate seeds dressed with local arbequina extra virgen olive oil) plus cabrito asado (roasted youing goat).  To accompany our meal, we will have plenty of the great Navarra garnacha rosados (made from free-run juice), that Don Ernesto loved to drink.  After dinner, we will return to Tudela and, for those still game, immerse ourselves in the sprit of a great Navarra fiesta. 
 
We will also hear jota singers and the brave of us may participate in the midnight revoltoso, where Tudelanos young and old circle the bandstand in la Plaza de los Fueros  in a great wave of people as a band plays, increasing and lowering the tempo, which causes the whole revolution of people in the plaza to speed up or slow down at the whims of the director of the band.  The Revolotoso has to be seen to be believed.

  Hotel Cuidad de Tudela, Tudela (Navarra).

 
 Don Ernesto loved to drink great Navarra garnacha rosados, made from free-run juice.

Day 07 Friday, July 25 Tudela 

Today, we will live the Fiestas de Santa Ana de Tudela with the encierro (running of the bulls a la Pamplona) in the morning and in the afternoon there will be a novillada (for apprentice toreros), for those so inclined to attend.  The whole town will be in fiesta a la Pamplona in Hemingway's time, i. e., before all the tourists invaded.  In fact, when my partner Kay Balun and I went in 2024, we were the only Americans at the Fiesta.

 Hotel Cuidad de Tudela, Tudela (Navarra) or Parador de Olite (Navarra).
 
 Plaza de los Fueros in Tudela during the opening of la Fiesta de Santa Ana.

Day 08 Saturday, July 26 Tudela – Valencia

We will leave Tudela in morning and take the long drive to Valencia, a la Hemingway following the fiestas around Spain, to arrive in Valencia during their July Fiestas.  

We will check into our hotel, visit the Mercat Central, then have a paella lunch at La Pepica, overlooking the Playa de la Malvarrosa where Hemingway ate when he was in Valencia. 

In the afternoon, we will have the option of attending the bullfight and / or visiting parts of Valencia's amazing futuristic City of Arts & Sciences, then in the evening, dinner will be at the exceptional tapas restaurant Casa Montaña (established in 1839), followed by optional fiesta and fireworks.

Hotel Valencia Palace (or similar), Valencia.

 Paellas at La Pepica,Valencia.

Photos at La Pepica of EH, Antonio Ordoñez and friends having dinner there during The Dangerous Summer.


 Owner Emiliano García and Gerry Dawes at Casa Montaña, Valencia.

 Casa Montaña, founded in 1836 in the working class/fishermens barrio of
El Cabanyal-El Canyamelar in Valencia.
 
Day 09 Sunday, July 27 Valencia – Chinchón 

In the morning, we will we will ride across La Mancha, stopping to see some of the windmills made famous in Don Quixote and arrive in the magical town of Chinchón in time for lunch in a great Castilian restaurant overlooking the Plaza.

Quixotesque windmills in La Mancha.

It is probable that there may be one of the famous bullfights in Chinchón's Plaza Mayor, which our tour participants will have the option to attend. 

We will spend the evening exploring this lovely town with its iconic Plaza Mayor and have our farewell dinner at another very special restaurant on the Plaza that has a dining room that is a taurine photo museum dedicated to the former owner’s friend, Matador Nicanor Villalta, for whom John Hemingway’s uncle John Hadley Nicanor Hemingway was named.  

Hotel Condesa de Chinchón.

 Chinchón's Plaza Mayor.

 Patio of the Condesa de Chinchón.


 Chinchón's Plaza Mayor.
 
La Balconada Restaurante, which overlooks Chinchón's iconic Plaza Mayor.
 
Day 10 Monday, July 28  Chinchón – Madrid - USA

Our bus will take our group to Madrid airport, just under an hour from Chinchón,  to catch our flights back to the U. S.  Anyone who books a very early flight will need ask us to help line up a taxi to the airport. 

'
 Madrid Airport, Terminal IV.

Text and photographs copyright by Gerry Dawes©2022.  Using photographs without crediting Gerry Dawes©2021 on Facebook.  Publication without my written permission is not authorized.

   * * * * * 

 
(Available at Amazon, Despana (NYC), LaTienda.com, La Boca Restaurant (Santa Fe, NM) and at Kitchen Arts & Letters bookstore (NYC). 
 
Comments are welcome and encouraged.
 
Help Support Gerry Dawes's Spain & Its Content

If you enjoy these blog posts, please consider a contribution to help me continue the work of gathering all this great information and these photographs for Gerry Dawes's Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel. Contributions of $5 and up will be greatly appreciated. Contributions of $100 or more will be acknowledged on the blog.

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* * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
 
Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
 ______________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

Again ranked in the Top 50 Gastronomy Blogs and Websites for Gastronomists & Gastronomes by Feedspot. (Last Updated October, 2019)

"The Best Gastronomy blogs selected from thousands of Food blogs, Culture blogs and Food Science blogs in our index using search and social metrics. We’ve carefully selected these websites because they are actively working to educate, inspire, and empower their readers with frequent updates and high-quality information."  

36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel


 
About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

2/12/2025

A Taste of Northern Spain: The Basque Country, Navarra, La Rioja, Burgos and Madrid with Gerry Dawes Wednesday, April 30, 2025 - Sunday, May 11, 2025

 
* * * * * 
 (11 Days, 10 Nights, with the option of extra days in Madrid)

Join a Spanish Adventure Designed, Organized and Guided by Acclaimed Spanish Gastronomy, Wine & Culture Expert Gerry Dawes

 
 Food and Wine Road Warrior Gerry Dawes in Burgos, Spain
 
About Gerry Dawes 

Gerry Dawes is a writer-photographer and author of Sunset in a Glass:  Adventures of a Food and Wine Road Warrior in Spain, who lived in Spain for eight years and has made  more than 125 trips to Spain.  He has spoken frequently on on Spanish gastronomy, wine and cultural themes and has organized and led more than twenty customized gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain.   

Gerry Dawes has led multiple tours for some of the best-known American chefs, culinarians, food and wine aficionados and Spain enthusiasts, including Chefs Thomas Keller, Michael Lomonaco, Mark Miller (seven times), Mark Kiffin, James Campbell Caruso, Michael Chiarello, Norman Van Aken, Terrance Brennan, Michael Ginor, Christopher Gross and others such luminaries as Author Rozanne Gold, Restaurants Consultant Michael Whiteman, Baseball great Keith Hernandez and U. S. Senator James Abourezk, plus such groups the Commonwealth Club of California (twice), the 61st Tactical Fighter Squadron (twice), the World Trade Center Club and the Club Chefs of NY & CT.  

In addition to being awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronómía He was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts retrospective piece on Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.

"Before the golden age of food travel media, and long before Spain became the world’s most exciting food destination, there was Gerry Dawes. A walking (and eating) encyclopedia of Spanish food and culture—from tapas to the culinary innovators, from artisan winemakers and cheesemakers to the sites only the locals know—Gerry has chronicled them all.  Like few others, he continues to inspire and inform a generation of food writers, travelers, and chefs like me." – Dan Barber, Chef at Blue Hill New York and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, author of The Third Plate:  Field Notes on the Future of Food.
  
This trip is based on experiences I have over several decades and from recent intensive trips to northern Spain in and 2024.  We will be accompanied by Gerry’s partner Kay Balun, who has been on numerous trips to Spain, helps with logistics and assures that the trip runs as smoothly as possible.

 $4,995 per person, without airfare; $895 single supplement.

Tours & Conditions and Sign-up sheet available to interested parties. (e-mail me at  gerrydawes@aol.com.

Itinerary (B, L, D, T = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tapas)

Photographs by Gerry Dawes©2024.

Day 00 Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Fly from home cities via Spanish or European gateway cities to Bilbao, The Basque Country, Spain. 

Pre-trip group arrives in Bilbao in the evening.

  

Museo Guggenheim Bilbao.

 Day 01 Thursday, May 1 Bilbao

            Group arrives separately at Bilbao airport and take taxis or airport bus to our centrally located hotel in Bilbao.

            We will meet in the lobby of our hotel at 14:00 (2 p. m.) and depart for lunch at an excellent tapas restaurant near Museo Guggenheim Bilbao. 

            After lunch, I will offer the option of exploring Bilbao on foot. We will visit la Plaza Nueva in the old quarter and walk around the magnificent Frank Gehry-designed Museo Guggenheim Bilbao, which I have been photographing periodically since before it officially opened in October 1997.  For those interested, there will be the option to visit the interior of the museum.

            After our walking visit in Bilbao, we will be free to relax, take a siesta, do more exploring or shop in this vibrant city.

           At 20:00 (8 p. m.), we will meet in the lobby, have an optional cocktail or refreshment, then walk just a block from our hotel to a wonderful seafood-centric restaurant.  In July, 2024 (and on previous visits) I ate at this restaurant and its sister restaurant several times, once with a dozen presenters from The Hemingway Society Conference.  I look forward to sharing this restaurant with you.

            Since many of you will have recently arrived from trans-ocean flights, we will make an early night of it to be fresh for tomorrow’s adventures.

 

Hotel Ercilla, Bilbao.

  Day 02 Friday, May 3 Bilbao – San Sebastián B, L, D

            In the morning, there will be the option of visiting the colorful Mercado de la Ribera, alongside the Nervión River.   We make a short stop for a second breakfast, then return to our hotel and depart for San Sebastián, via the Bay of Biscay coastline, which has spectacular views and some wonderful fishing villages.  We will also make a stop in the historic town of Guernica (Gernika in Basque), which inspired Picasso’s immortal Spanish Civil War painting.

We will check into our hotel near the old quarter and overlooking the magnificent La Concha beach, then I will lead our group on an orientation tour of the old quarter with its multitude a of pintxos (Basque for tapas) bars and quaint and original shops full of treasures available only in the Basque Country.   You will be free to wander, explore or even walk the spectacular La Concha beach.  Around two p.m., I will lead us to a traditional old quarter restaurant for lunch on typical Basque dishes.

         The afternoon will be free to enjoy San Sebastián.  Once you experience this place, you will be grateful for having the free time to enjoy the city on your own.

            In the evening, we will meet and take a short bus ride to Monte Igueldo, which overlooks San Sebastián and the splendid Bahía de la Concha.  We will stop at a hotel overlooking the city and weather permitting, we will have an optional drink on the terrace, then have dinner in a Michelin-starred restaurant serving cocina de vanguardia, the Spanish avant-garde creative cuisine that made San Sebastián one of the most famous restaurant cities in the world.

           

San Sebastián.

            After dinner will be free for optional drinks in one of several recommended local bars.

 Day 03 Saturday, May 4 San Sebastián B, L

          We will have breakfast in the hotel and spend a leisurely morning, strolling la Concha beach, re-visiting the old quarter, or shopping.

            Since Saturday will be a mandated free day for our bus driver, we will take a city bus to the nearby port of Pasajes de San Pedro, where we will catch the little ferry that crosses the inlet every 15 minutes to Pasaia Donibane (Pasajes de San Pedro).  We will stroll this very picturesque inlet-side Basque village, where Victor Hugo once spent a year.  In a very special traditional cuisine restaurant overlooking the water we while away an afternoon over a long, leisurely Spanish luncheon.

  

Pasaia Donibane.

            We will catch the ferry and bus back to the center of San Sebastián where the afternoon will be free (once you experience San Sebastián, you will thank me).

             In the evening, we will join the paseo and stroll over a few blocks for an optional pintxo bar hopping tour of the Casco Viejo of San Sebastián.  I will leave one third of our group in one bar and show you what to order, then a second group in another bar and a third in another, then we will rotate with Kay and me floating between groups.  If we can find space for the whole group at one special place, we will end the evening’s outing with the legendary tarta de queso quemada vasca, “burnt Basque cheesecake.”

  

Mushrooms at a great pintxos bar in San Sebastián.

 Day 04 Sunday, May 4 San Sebastián Getaria B, L

            In late morning, we move to the beautiful fishing village of Getaria, which is just 25 kilometers west of San Sebastián.  Getaria may truly be the greatest fishing village in the world in both the fish harvesting off its coast and the quality of the seafood restaurants in this town, which are astounding.   Literally, the greatest fish restaurant in the world may be in Getaria.

 

Gerry Dawes with the great maestro parillero (grill meister)  Pello Arruabarrena and a whole grilled rodaballo (turbot) at Kaia in Getaria.  Pello, now 27 years at the grills at Kaia, worked on fishing boats for 12 years.

           Getaria is the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elkano, the first man to circumnavigate the earth (Magellan was killed in the Philippines and Elkano brought the one surviving ship of the expedition back to Spain).  It is also the hometown of the late famous fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, in whose honor the village opened the Balenciaga Museum a few years ago, and of Pepita Embril, a famous zarzuela and operetta soprano and the mother of the great opera singer Plácido Domingo.

 

Port, Getaria.

            We will check into our charming boutique hotel, then we will walk a couple of village blocks to have lunch in a stunning restaurant overlooking the Bay of Biscay, the port and the Basque Coast.  We will enjoy txangurro, a legendary Basque crab dish, and share whole rodaballo (turbot) grilled of wood coals, accompanied by some surprising wines from the owner’s cellar.  This restaurant is one of the most memorable places I have ever eaten.  I have brought several famous American chefs, writers and personalities here for lunch.

            We will visit this small village, see the two statues to Elkano and the village church, which has Elkano’s tomb, the port and the chapel of la Virgen del Carmen, the fisherman’s Madonna, which is beneath an archway over the street where fishermen stop on their way to the port to pay their respects to the virgin before heading out into the often wild Atlantic Ocean.

            After our long lunch, the evening will be free to relax or form small groups to explore this charming small town and find your own tapas bars and restaurants from a list of recommendations or just relax and have a drink at an outdoor café.

Day 05 Monday, May 5 Getaria – Artajona - Olite – Corella - Tudela  B, L, D

   

 Kay Balun at breakfast in Getaria.

                Weather permitting, we will have breakfast at our hotel on an outdoor terrace with spectacular views of the Bay of Biscay, then depart for Navarra and travel a little over an hour to the south where will visit the hilltop walled villlage of Artajona, which is completely surrounded by 11th century medieval towers and fortified walls, known as El Cerco de Artajona (“The Walls of Artajona”).  

             After another half hour ride we will arrive in the splendid medieval castle town of Olite, where we will stop to explore, do some light shopping for typical Navarrese items and have some refreshments, weather permitting, at one of Olite´s outdoor cafes. 

 

Olite

 After Olite, another half hour ride south will take us to the town of Corella, where we will visit a winery which has some of the best wines in Navarra, including one of the world’s greatest rosados (rosés).  After our winery visit, we will go to one of my favorite restaurants in northern Spain, whose chef is a friend of mine for many years.   He specializes in dishes featuring the exceptional vegetables of this region—white asparagus, artichokes (artichoke hearts fried, served with foie gras), cardoons, pimiento de piquillo and bean dishes, along with such unforgettable dishes as cabrito asado (roast goat) and glorious desserts.  We will accompany this wonderful food with plenty of those vinos we tasted earlier.  The winery owner will likely be our guest at this memorable meal. 

 

 

 Cabrito (roast kid) with patatas panaderas (classic baker's style potatoes)  
and the wines of Carlos Aliaga at El Crucero Restaurante, Corella (Navarra).

After lunch, we will travel 20 minutes east to the marvelous town of Tudela, the capital of La Ribera del Ebro, the great vegetable and wine growing region of Navarra.  We will check into our hotel in a historic 18th-century building that is just a block from the Plaza de Los Fueros, the heart of Tudela.  We will take a walking tour of the old quarter of Tudela, home to Christians, Moors and Jews in Middle Ages and birthplace of the famous wandering Jew Benjamín de Tudela.   The Cathedral of Tudela has one of the greatest Romanesque doorways in Christendom and the cloister has the remains of the synagogue that once stood here.

 

La Plaza de los Fueros, Tudela (during the Fiestas de Santa Ana in late July).

 The rest of the afternoon will be free to enjoy exploring Tudela or relaxing at one of the outdoor cafés in la Plaza de los Fueros.

 In the evening, we will meet in the lobby of our hotel and stroll to a restaurant in la Plaza de los Fueros, we will dine on dishes based on vegetables grown in the chef’s own gardens in la mejana, an area along the Ebro River dedicated to kitchen gardens.   During and after dinner, we will likely hear some jota singers, for Tudela is the epicenter for jotas. 

 

Chef Luis Salceda, Restaurante Remigio, Tudela in the artichoke patch in his kitchen garden.

 Day 06 Tuesday, May 6 Tudela B, L

 

               We will spend a leisurely morning exploring more of old Moorish-Jewish-Christian Tudela, then visit the municipal market of Tudela and the vegetable gardens and fruit patches and orchards of La Mejana along the Ebro River to scout some of the ingredients for our lunch.

 

               The magnificent 12th century Romanesque portal of the Cathedral of Tudela.  

               

                For lunch we will gather again at Restaurante Remigio, where with the help of Chef Luis and perhaps another guest chef, I will join in cooking our meal, which will be done in the style of famous txokos, or sociedades gastronómicas, of the Basque Country and Navarra, communal social clubs with stocked kitchens where members, many of them highly skilled cooks, prepare meals for their fellow socios.   I will be cooking and guiding a menu based on my own interpretations of several Basque and Navarrese dishes.  We will have as my guests several friends from Tudela and Pamplona.   And, if we are lucky, we may even hear a few jotas, sung by our guests. (This meal was originally planned to take place at the Casino de Pamplona (not a gambling casino, but the city’s main social club), but it was not available to us.   

 

Friends cooking for friends a sociedad gastronómica.

           After lunch, the rest of the afternoon and evening will be free to explore and enjoy Tudela on your own and discover your own culinary surprises from a list of recommended restaurants (we will assist in making reservations through our hotel). You will treasure your free time in this wonderful town.

 Day 07, Wednesday, May 7 Tudela – Pyreneen Villages - Pamplona B, L, T

          We will depart early this morning (9:00 a.m.) for the most intense day of the trip, a marvelous journey through the villages of the Pyrenees.  Our first stop, an hour to the north, will be briefly to see the historically significant town of Sos del Rey Católico in neighboring Aragón, birthplace of King Ferdinand, husband of Queen Isabel I, the Catholic Kings.   In 15 minutes after Sos del Rey, we will arrive in the historic town of Sangüesa, see the wonderful 12th century Romanesque façade of  Iglesia de Santa María la Real, then stop at a local cafeteria for a coffee or refreshment break, where I will tell the remarkable tale of an American who ran with the bulls here and was gored.  

              On June 12, 1994, Gerry Dawes published an article in The Sunday New York Times Travel Section about some of the villages we are going to see this afternoon.

  

 Iglesia de Santa María la Real, Sangüesa

        After we drive 45 minutes north to the picturesque Burgui with its lovely multi-arched medieval bridge over the Esca river.   The greatest producer of questo de Roncal, one of the most famous cheeses in Spain is located here.  We will visit the cheese works that produces one of the best cheeses in the region, one that is available in the United States, but can be purchased here and brought back in your luggage.  North of Burgui, we will visit the mountain town of Roncal, which is the hometown of the great 19th century soprano Gayarre, whose ornate tomb by the great Valencia sculptor, Mariano Benlliure, we will see in the local cemetery.  

 
Larra is the top cheese producer of Roncal.

        We will continue from Roncal along the southern foothills of the Pyrenees to the town of Ochagavia, through which the Anduña, a mountain trout stream, runs to join the Salazar River at the edge of town.  We will explore Ochagavia briefly on our way to lunch at a restaurant that serves the wonderful traditional food of Navarra, which we will accompany, as at all our meals in Navarra, the fine rosados and vinos tintos of Navarra and here in Ochagavia with local apple cider.  

 

Ochagavia

        After lunch, we will drive through some striking mountain scenery and villages, then visit the the Fábrica de Orbaitzeta, a tiny hamlet alongside a de-commissioned 19th-century munitions factory.  We will take a short walk to see the setting where Hemingway placed Jake Barnes and Bill Gorton for the trout fishing scenes, including the spring where Jake Barnes cooled the two bottles of wine that they had carried 7 and 1/2 miles to have with their lunch.  After Orbaitzeta, we will stop at Arive to see the Medieval stone bridge over the Irati River (contrary to popular belief Hemingway’s characters did not fish the Irati River in The Sun Also Rises, they fished the tributaries that we will have just seen at Orbaitzeta). 

 

The Hemingway spring on the trail above the village of Orbaitzeta.

 

Kay Balun on the Medieval bridge over the Irati River at Arive.

          Leaving Orbaitzeta, we travel another 25 minutes to the historic monastery of Roncesvalles, one of the most important stops on the Camino de Santiago and the first major shrine after Camino walkers cross the mountains from France into Spain.  After Roncesvalles, we return 3 kms. south to the village of Burguete to have a refreshment at Hostal Burguete, where Hemingway’s characters Jake Barnes and Bill Gorton stayed, then hiked fifteen miles round trip to fish for trout.  We will see the piano that the Bill Gorton character played in The Sun Also Rises and the room where Hemingway supposedly stayed (it was not his room because it is on the third floor which was not built until the 1930s)—The Sun Also Rises was set in 1925.

  

        After Burguete, a ride of about an hour will bring us down from the mountains to Pamplona, where we will check into our hotel, which is three blocks from the main Plaza del Castillo.  We have some time to relax, then meet in the lobby and stroll past the Plaza de Toros and the monument to Ernest Hemingway and see them impressive monument to he running of the bulls.   

 

Ernest Hemingway monument in front of the Plaza de Toros, Pamplona.

Monument to the encierro, the running of the bulls in Pamplona.

             After such an eventful day, we will have tapas at a great traditional restaurant less than a block from our hotel. 

Day 08 Thursday, May 8 Pamplona B, L, D

             In the morning, breakfast in the hotel will be at your option.  The group's breakfast will be in the calle San Nicolas, which is lined with bars, tapas bars and restaurants.  It is called Death Alley, because there have been many who tried to have a drink in every one of the bars on this street in the same night and failed, thus the name.  Some say this stunt is more dangerous than running with the bulls.  I am amongst those who have tried and failed.  If possible--weather, regulations outside of fiesta--we may have a typical Pamplona “street” breakfast, where tables are set up on a pedestrian street and we eat al fresco.

Gerry Dawes and Kay Balun at a street breakfast in Pamplona, July 2024.

            After breakfast lunch, we will convene at a suitable venue, where I will give a PowerPoint orientation on Pamplona, Hemingway, the Fiestas de San Fermín and the encierro, then we will walk the encierro route and stroll through the old quarter of Pamplona with time to stop in some of the typical shops.

  

 Encierro, running of the bulls, Pamplona (only in July).

                    Lunch will be at one of the best restaurants in northern Spain, just steps from la Plaza del Castillo in Pamplona.

                      

Chef Pilar Idoate, Restaurante Europa, Pamplona.

The rest of the afternoon will be free to explore Pamplona, which has many outdoor cafés around the Plaza de Castillo, the lively epicenter of Pamplona and the hub of the fiestas each July.

 

Plaza del Castillo, Pamplona

            For dinner we will gather in our hotel and stroll back to calle San Nicolas, where we will eat at an asador overlooking the street.  Asadores in Navarra specialize in grilled meats and other typical dishes from the region.

 You may want to follow dinner with a drink in the Plaza or at the Café Iruña’s Rincón de Hemingway, where there is a life-size bronze station of Hemingway standing at the bar.

 Pamplona, life-size statue of Ernest Hemingway at the bar at Café Iruña.

Day 09 Friday, May 9 Pamplona – La Rioja – Burgos B, L, D

           After breakfast, we will depart for one of Spain’s greatest wine regions, La Rioja.  Along the way, we will see some sites on Camino de Santiago, the world-famous spiritual pilgrimage road.

            We will visit a magical winery in Haro, the capital of la Rioja Alta, then ride half an hour to a family winery in southern Rioja, where we will visit another bodega (winery), whose cellars in man-made caves that were hand-hewn into the soft rock of the hill overlooking the village.  We will tour the winery, then sample the wines over a lunch in the family merendero (the bodega’s rustic dining room complete with a chimenea, a fireplace where the winery owner will roast baby lamb chops over grapevine cuttings, which we will enjoy with his own Spanish tortilla de patatas, salad and chorizo.

 

Bodegas Lecea in La Rioja where a fire of sarmientos, grape vine cuttings, over which they will cook chorizos and lamb chops, is burning down to proper level for roasting the meat.

            After our bodega visit and lunch, an hour’s drive will bring us to Burgos, one of the great monumental cities of northern Spain, a town for which Gerry Dawes wrote an article that was published on the front page of The New York Times Travel Section.

 

Cathedral of Burgos.

After checking into our hotel, we will take a walking tour of the Casco Viejo, the old quarter of Burgos, which has one of the most majestic Gothic cathedrals in the world.  You will be free until dinner to explore on your own, shop and relax.

 

 Jorge García and Vermút at my favorite Vermutería Victoria in Burgos.

           Before dinner, those interested can join me for an optional vermút at one of Spain’s greatest vermouth bars, whose owner produces his own brand of vermút rojo.  From the Vermutería, it is just a short stroll across the square in front of the illuminated cathedral to a restaurant with outdoor tables where we will enjoy a dinner of classic Castilian specialties.

 Day 10, Saturday, May 10 Burgos – Madrid B, L, T

           We will strive for wheels up at 09:00 to head two hours south to Madrid, where we will check into our downtown hotel.   

           Optional visit to the Prado Museum and/or the Reina Sofia modern art museum or the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum.

       

Prado Museum.

 We will walk from our hotel through old Madrid to an emblematic restaurant with traditional cuisine, where we will have lunch and a grand old time. 

            The afternoon will be free to explore, shop or take a siesta.

 

Flamenco in Madrid.

In the early evening we have the option to meet at our hotel, then stroll into old Madrid to see an early Flamenco performance, after which we will take taxis to the far side of Retiro Park, Madrid’s Central Park, and have dinner at a couple of the great tapas restaurants in this area, ending at the tapas bar that has been frequented by many famous American chefs and culinary figures whom I have taken there.  Here we will have our farewell meal for those leaving tomorrow.

 

 Tapas hopping with a few friends at Rafa in Madrid. 

 Gerry Dawes, Tetsuya Wakuda, Rochelle Smith, Livia Iaccarino (Don Alfonso 1890)
Janet Van Aken, Charlie Trotter, Norman Van Aken.  Photo: Don Alfonso Iaccarino.

 Day 11, Sunday, May 11 Madrid B 

           End of Tour, Option to Stay in Madrid Extra Days

          Option to fly to home cities or stay Sunday and/or Monday in Madrid.  For those staying, there will be the option in the morning to visit more museums and sites in Madrid.

 

Gerry Dawes and legendary Casa Lucio owner Lucio Blásquezat lunch at Casa Lucio, Cava Baja, Madrid.

We will gather in early afternoon, visit an old Hemingway hangout and have an optional leisurely Spanish Sunday lunch at a restaurant renowned for its regional specialties.

 Afternoon and evening free with an optional outing for dinner with Gerry Dawes and Kay Balun and some Madrid friends.

Day 12 Monday, May 12 Madrid – Home Cities

            Optional extra day in Madrid.  Possible day trip to Toledo.

            Each traveller or couple departs separately by taxi or airport bus for Madrid airport.  

--End--
 
Comments are welcome and encouraged.
 
Text and photographs copyright by Gerry Dawes©2021.  Using photographs without crediting Gerry Dawes©2024 on Facebook and publication without my written permission is not author-ized.

* * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
 
Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
 _______________________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

In 2019, again ranked in the Top 50 Gastronomy Blogs and Websites for Gastronomists & Gastronomes in 2019 by Feedspot. (Last Updated Oct 23, 2019) 

"The Best Gastronomy blogs selected from thousands of Food blogs, Culture blogs and Food Science blogs in our index using search and social metrics. We’ve carefully selected these websites because they are actively working to educate, inspire, and empower their readers with frequent updates and high-quality information."  

36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel


 
About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 
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