“I found him (Robert M. Parker, Jr., the world’s most powerful wine critic) genial, even as his opinions horrified me, especially his dismissal of terroir as an elaborate European marketing hoax. . . "
"Robert Parker (says Gerry Dawes) . . . has turned a wine world of independent winemakers making terroir-based wines that were identifiable by their origins, into a consultants’, importers’ and reps’ game, where wines are tailored to just one palate.”
– From Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters, Jonathan Nossiter.
The New York Times review by Jim Holt was lukewarm; the Slate review by Mike Steinberger was very unfavorable.
For a really insightful, in-depth review of Liquid Memory, go to Reign of Terroir for
(Disclaimer: I am quoted in the two chapters on Spain.)
For a really insightful, in-depth review of Liquid Memory, go to Reign of Terroir for
Why We Are Not Dogs. Jonathan Nossiter’s Liquid Memory
There is also a very in-depth interview with Nossiter, also the Reign of Terroir website, which takes some time but is well worth reading for those who want to hear more about the film maker-author's views on wine, philosophy and life.
Jonathan Nossiter pt 2, On Wine’s New Global Dialogue
Jonathan Nossiter pt. 3, Wine, Power, Portugal
I would love to hear your opinions on Liquid Memory.
(Disclaimer: I am quoted in the two chapters on Spain.)
About Gerry Dawes
Gerry Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand prize in 2009 and received the Association of Food Journalists 2009 Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.
Gerry Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand prize in 2009 and received the Association of Food Journalists 2009 Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.
Mr. Dawes is currently working on a reality television
series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
Experience Spain With Gerry Dawes: Culinary Trips to Spain & Travel Consulting on Spain
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
I finished the book in two days and came away with many additional insights about the wine world. Sure, the author's ego was in evidence. But if audiences routinely dismissed artists and other professionals with a healthy view of themselves, heaven help us. I especially appreciated learning about some ITB with little-known conflicts of interest. It lent perspective to some previous exchanges I've encountered. Your (Gerry Dawes') input was most appreciated as well.
ReplyDeleteAlas, Mike Steinberger sure seemed to relish 'character assassination' (aka his book review) on the order equivalent to his questionable accusations about Nossiter's apparent rebutals. Poor form, Mike.
Dear Mitch,
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for your comments. I am sure that Jonathan Nossiter knew his book was going to be controversial and I think your comment "But if audiences routinely dismissed artists and other professionals with a healthy view of themselves, heaven help us." is on the mark.
I remember many posters on the wine boards loved to hack away at Alice Feiring's book as well because of her style, her inclusion of her significant others, etc., but her book, like Nossiter's and Neal Rosenthal's have many pearls of wisdom about wine, philosophy and life that needed to be heard amid the din of crass commercialism to which the greater part of the wine world has descended.
Mike Steinberger is a good writer and has a right to his opinions, but in this case, I don't agree with his slant on Nossiter's book. Jonathan may be criticized (and I am sure, will be, in many quarters), but most of his message needs to be heard.
I will just add this about Jonathan Nossiter and his book. It ain't easy sometimes being an anti-Parkerista, anti-wine establishment voice. Take it from one who knows.
Thanks very much for taking the time to comment.
My best, Gerry Dawes
Very refreshing take. Thank you for the link.
ReplyDeleteDidn't read the book, but Mondovino was recommended to me when I began filming what became "La Bobal and other stories about wine". I didn't know anything about the world of wine at the time, and like the film with a few reservations. As I found out more about the world of wine, my opinion changed from an ok film to silly, then finally dishonest and manipulative. The world of wine is a very complex entity, it's not an international brand or corporation, and the film was edited to impose a simplistic anti-globalisation slant and avoid complexities.
ReplyDelete