Taberna del Alabardero, Madrid: Several Excellent Meals from the Kitchen of Chef Roberto de Hierro from November-February

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La Taberna del Alabardero

C/ Felipe V, 6

28013 Madrid, Spain

915 472 577

Metro: Ópera

On Jan. 28, I had lunch at the bar at La Taberna del Alabardero, Madrid, and dinner in the dining room that same night. From beginning to end, it was an incredible experience. I met Patxo and Pedro de Lezama at the bar--which was in the film "Around the World in Eighty Days--and Chef Roberto Hierro began to send out revueltos con setas (eggs with chanterelles), calamares, impeccably fresh sea urchin, a plancha grilled carabinero (large scarlett prawn) and torrijas de vainilla with ice cream for dessert. 

Later that evening, I returned for dinner by myself. I was served some croquetas with jamon Iberico to start, then a wonderful bowl of six varieties of sauteed mushrooms (I asked for a fresh egg yolk, the perfect sauce for hot mushrooms), then I had terrific porrusalda with brandade de bacalao, fresh bacalao and txangurro (spider crab), a typical Basque dish. A lovely mandarine sorbert served in a Champagne glass was a great finish to the evening and a terrific dining experience at La Taberna.

A superb rendition of bacalao, much beloved in Spain. Chef Roberto de Hierro roasts fresh bacalao (cod), puts a spoonful of txangurro (spider crab meat) and a spoonful of brandade underneath, then a waiter pours on porrusalda, a wonderful classic Basque leek and potato soup as a sauce, La Taberna del Alabardero.
Photograph by Gerry Dawes©2010. Contact gerrydawes@aol.com.

On another occasion in February, I went with Esmeralda Capel of Madrid Fusion, her husband Juan Suarez and Blanca Villarello of Madrid Fusion Mexico. On still another occasion I had dinner there by myself and Chef de Hierro served me anchoas de Santoña (Santander), served with grated tomato, a garlic clove and toasted bread; pimientos de Padrón; sopa de pescado with clams, fish and saffron; and canutillos with caramel sauce and arroz con leche for dessert.

La Taberna del Alabadero Chef Roberto de Hierro's sopa de pescado with clams, fish and saffron.

Photograph by Gerry Dawes©2010.

On a couple of occasions back in November and December I also had meals at la Taberna del Alabadero with Padre Luis de Lezama and Bryan Miller, former restaurant critic of The New York Times. All the meals were personally prepared by Chef Roberto de Hierro. (Disclaimer: I am writing a book on Padre Lezama tentatively entitled, "The Padre's Tavern." However, I would not have filed this report had Roberto de Hierro's food not been exceptional.  I recommend that if you make a reservation at La Taberna del Alabardero in Madrid that you tell them I sent you and ask for Roberto to prepare a menu, after a consultation about any likes, dislikes or allergies.)

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Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com