* * * * *
Now in the Second Editions with added photos and vignettes.
I do not know Tim Pinks, who lives in London, is a gifted writer, a lover of things Spanish and
has been attending the Fiestas de San Fermín in Pamplona since 1984. Suffice to say, he was impressed with my book.
Tim
Pinks was given the "Guiri of the Year" Award by Señor Testis, the blue
bull with the yellow horns, an image made famous world-wide by my
friend Mikel Urmeneta* and his crew at Kukuxumusu, the Drawings and
Ideas Factory that Urmeneta founded. (Mikel Urmeneta has since moved on
and now runs Katuki Saguyaki, another innovative drawings and ideas studio.)
Tim Pinks review.
I posted an Amazon review for Gerry Dawes´s Sunset in a Glass: Adventures of a Food and Wine Road Warrior in Spain (and
we don't know each other, folks, this is all from the pleasure of the
book) but as it may take a couple of days I thought I'd pop it up here
first.
This review is especially for one Erica Messinger.
She suggested I do one for Amazon - and I was going to anyway - but
it's always nice to have some kind words and encouragement. So here it
is.
I
finished the book on Saturday. What a ride all over Spain! Talking of
riding, I wonder what a girl on a horse would look like through a glass
of Manzanilla?!
A Banquet of a Book - Sunset in a Glass: Adventures of a Food and Wine Road Warrior in Spain Volume I Enhanced Photography Edition, Foreword by José Andrés by Gerry Dawes
‘Sunset…’ Wow. I love this book. What an exquisitely expressed and wonderfully written book. I just had to invent a new word, Gerrymeandering: Travelling up and down and around Iberia enjoying the great wines, food and people of Spain.
I
love books, but I wanted to more than ‘open’ this one. I’d seen a
couple of extracts so I knew the writing was good, and I also know of
his website so knew he wouldn’t allow a bad book to go out on sale like
he wouldn’t allow a bad wine onto a table.
So
I made up a little ritual. As I took it out of the package I pretended
it was the literary equivalent of uncorking a fine wine. I let it breath
for a while, savouring the aroma of its covers and breathing in those
‘new book’ flavours of fresh pages and glossy photographs.
Having
decanted the book from the packaging as one might a wine from a bottle,
I then held it, felt it, let it breathe by running through the
pages…and it felt good. The first big test for me of a book is how it
feels, (and it has to be good inside too, of course) and this one felt,
and looked, beautiful.
Big
and bendy and literally beautiful to behold. Perhaps it was fate but
the first page I stopped at as I back-to-front flicked through the pages
was a photo in the Pamplona chapter. (I’m a huge fan of the fabulous
Fiesta of San Fermin.)
Another
big test comes from when I am first moved by the writing…be it a laugh,
a smile, even a tear…or an image painted from the words… Well, the
first laugh came before Gerry even starts writing. It came from a quote
by one D.E. Pohren: "So much for my sentimental liver, dictating little
bastard. On with the book."
And so… So much for my dubious little wine analogies, pretentious little bastard…on with the book!
The
first time I caught my breath and thought, ‘oh-my-gosh, that’s good’
was on just page three of the first chapter, describing an alternative
and romantic version of how the town Sanluca de Barrameda (Dawes
‘Shangri-La’ I reckon) got its name, and also, in a roundabout way, how
the book got its title: "Several
ships bearing treasure from the New World were wrecked and sunk after
running on to the sandbar, so maybe part of the gold leaf laid down on
the sea by the setting sun could be reflections of sunken Aztec or Inca
gold bullion…" Isn’t that beautiful?
Then
in chapter two he takes us off on a tangent and back into the past, to
when he first arrived in southern Spain with the US Navy at the end of
the sixties. It was here this young American from the south began to
expand his horizons…and his palate! And once again he moved me, informed
me…and made me laugh.
I
could write a review of every chapter but even for me that would be
going on a bit, so I’ll just mention a couple more things to provide the
slightest taster. The merest hint of the biggest and best
banquet-in-a-book you’ve ever had.
As
a regular at Pamplona’s famous Fiesta of San Fermin, talking about the
some of the folk he first met on his first visit in !970, I love this: "…the
Pamplona regulars – that international group of spiritual descendants
of Ernest Hemingway’s and Gertrude Stein’s Lost Generation who return to
San Fermin each July to revel in the light of a sun that for them still
rises." To revel in the light of a sun that for them still rises…isn’t that just perfect? This is a book to revel in.
In
chapter nine, writing about his friends at the wine firm of Lopez de
Heredia in La Rioja, pride of place doesn’t just go to the food, or
wine…but to those friends, of course. When you read about one of his
visits and the people he meets there, you want to meet them too…so a
tear comes to the eye and a lump to the throat when you find out that,
like many a fine wine…they’ve gone…
And
in a book that spans over 50 years, a lot of the characters (characters
to me – to Gerry, true friends) that bring personality to the pages
have left us… And although like a fine wine, the next generation’s been
nurtured, it can’t be replaced…
But
enough of the sad stuff. Like the country it is set in, this is a book
full of love, laughs and life. Of bars and restaurants and music and
song, of long lunches and longer dinners and great company and grand
times. Of Spain. And what’s more, all that aside, it’s just the most
terrific of travel adventures.
To
paraphrase a wee pair of words Dawes uses when describing the
extraordinary explosion of experimental food that emanated from the
Catalan kitchen of Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame – wonderfully he
describes it as a ‘culinary Krakatoa’ – well this book is a literary
lava flow of love to Spain’s gastronomy and the accompanying beverages.
It’s not just a heck of a trip all over Spain…it’s a trip inside it.
Many
doors, nay portals, are opened or referenced in this book. Cellar
doors, bar doors, restaurant doors and open portals to caves, hatches to
magic cheeses, and even porches into the past. The band The Doors took
their name from Aldous Huxley’s ‘The Doors of Perception.’ Being Huxley,
it’s full psychedelic experiences due to various…substances! But this
being Dawes, well…
We
have gastronomy: the practice or art of picking and choosing, and
cooking and eating good food. We have oenology for the study of not just
wines, but sherries, brandies, champagnes, etc. But I’ve been looking
for a word that combines the two…and one doesn’t seem to exist. So I’ve
invented one. Gastronomy…Oenology…Dawesenology: The enjoyment of the great wines and foods of Spain. The Dawes of Perfection, as it were.
I
shall leave the last words to Dawes. It just seems fitting. It comes at
the end of one of my favourite chapters, ‘Soldiers On A Train’. And
although not the most poetic, funny or moving line in a book that’s full
of them…it hits the bullseye on what this book is about. Before
you read it I shall answer his statement with this, because ‘it’ shines
through on every page: Oh yes you did, Mr. Dawes, oh yes you did…
‘’I developed a passion for Spain, Spaniards and Spanish wine and food that has endured to this day.’’
P.s:
I know, I know! I was going to leave that last line to Dawes, because
when I read it way back near the beginning of the book, I thought that
was the perfect way to end any review I might write. But then I read the
last chapter, having thought I’d written enough for a decent review.
And
the son-of-a-gastronomic-gun only ends Sunset in a Glass with the perfect
literary…sunset! I give up… He ends Volume One back where he, and we,
began this long and lovely Spanish sojourn.
All
I can say is, he finishes it beautifully, romantically, wonderfully and
poignantly. I love, love, LOVE this book. And he still gets the last
line, which is also the last line from the book. Apart from what’s in
the epilogue. Yes, there’s an epilogue!
I
give up…’cos yet again he takes us away on a journey, and it is an even
better ending, but I won’t even give a hint as to what’s in it as it is
too good for that. Suffice to say it’s a whale of a tale.
Adios,
enamadores de España… One day, I’m going to lift a glass of manzanilla,
at sunset, on the beach at Sanlúcar de Barrameda. And, in an allusion to that sweet
and sublime last chapter…maybe a beautiful girl will ride past on
horseback.
Here’s
the last line of the last chapter, on one of his many revisits to a
Mediterranean town called Sanlúcar de Barrameda, surrounded by friends,
as the sun goes down: "And as we lift our glasses for yet another toast, I can still see the Sanlúcar sunset in the glass."
* * * * *
Comments are welcome and encouraged.
Text and photographs
copyright by Gerry Dawes©2021. Using photographs without crediting Gerry Dawes©2021 on
Facebook. Publication without my written permission is not authorized.
* * * * *
Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
Poem
by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse
Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt
Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic
Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York
City.
________________________________________________________________________________
In 2019, again ranked in the Top 50
Gastronomy Blogs and Websites for Gastronomists & Gastronomes in
2019 by Feedspot. (Last Updated Oct 23, 2019)
"The Best Gastronomy blogs selected from
thousands of Food blogs, Culture blogs and Food Science blogs in our
index using search and social metrics. We’ve carefully selected these
websites because they are actively working to educate, inspire, and
empower their readers with frequent updates and high-quality
information."
36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel
About Gerry Dawes
My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine
enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless
crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce
Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's
culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel
Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019
Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)
Dawes
was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía
(National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on
Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural
tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's
Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava
Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004,
was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles
& Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the
2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature
in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about
Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.
".
. .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià
in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow
narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish
correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food
journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a
self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again
brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane
Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher,
Food Arts, October 2009.
Pilot for a reality television series
on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
No comments:
Post a Comment