* * * * *
The Church of
Omnium Sanctorum has a La Giralda-like
Mudéjar tower which originally may have been the minaret of a mosque that once
stood here, and a multi-archivolted Gothic doorway, both of which, despite their
seemingly diverse religious origens, make it one of the most distinguished of
the Gótico-Mudéjar churches of Sevilla.
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Since it is located on call Feria, a few blocks west of calle San Luis,
my original route into Sevilla, I likely did not see this church on my first
day in Sevilla in 1968, but I did pass by it on my route in 2016 on my first
try to re-trace my first entrance into Sevilla.
Another of the oldest churches in Sevilla, Omnium Sanctorum was built in 1249, during the reign of Fernando III el Santo, who defeated the Almohades in 1248 after a year-long siege. Obviously given the minaret tower and the fact that it was consecrated as a Catholic church so quickly after the reconquest, though just scant evidence remains of the foundation, this church was likely built on the site of a mosque, like any others from this period. The Mudéjar tower, originally built at the end of the XIVth Century, shows that its design was inspired by the Giralda minaret that was appropriated as the belltower of Cathedral of Sevilla, with similar arched windows and sebka decoration.
And, again, because of the damage from the earthquake of 1356. Omnium Sanctorum underwent major renovations. Declared an national monument in 1931, the church like most in this district was sacked and burned at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War in 1936. It was finally restored in 1993.
The interior has an interesting Mudéjar wooden artesanado ceiling, although it is obviously a restoration since the roof was destroyed during the civil war.
Sunset in a Glass: Adventures of a Food and Wine Road Warrior in Spain Volume I, Chapter I Sevilla: Arrival in Spain (in 1968) Soldiers on a Train (Excerpt protected by copyright) Sevilla
Sevilla, Retracing Steps Part Two: Iglesia de San Gil A Remarkable Walk From El Arco de la Macarena to the Cathedral Featuring a Half Dozen Mudéjar-and-Gothic Churches Built on the Sites of Former Mosques in the 14th Century
(Available
at Amazon, Despana (NYC), LaTienda.com, La Boca Restaurant (Santa Fe,
NM) and at Kitchen Arts & Letters bookstore (NYC).
Comments are welcome and encouraged.
* * * * *
Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
Poem
by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse
Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt
Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic
Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York
City.
______________________________________________________________________________________
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36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel
About Gerry Dawes
My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine
enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless
crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce
Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's
culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel
Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019
Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)
Dawes
was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía
(National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on
Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural
tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's
Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava
Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004,
was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles
& Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the
2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature
in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about
Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.
In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés.
".
. .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià
in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow
narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish
correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food
journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a
self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again
brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane
Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher,
Food Arts, October 2009.
Pilot for a reality television series
on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
Experience
Spain With Gerry Dawes: Customized Culinary, Wine & Cultural
Trips to Spain & Travel Consulting on Spain
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
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